Party in the Park
<< Nightmare of Brown Donkeys < Fantasia | Hot Gossip > The Phrantic Phinish >>
An eliminate that visits some wild spots.
1) 6a, 22m. Start as for Hot Gossip. After entering the groove traverse left at an easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan.
2) 6b, 20m. Follow Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right here and Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse wildly left into the hanging scoop (knee-lock rest) to good holds and gear (peg). Make the crux moves to and up the rib/crack to jugs and stance.
3) 5c, 22m. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and cam in pocket) to the roof and use the Phrantic Finish to cross this. Trend right across the wall to the break and finish up a small flake on the left.
FA. Neil Foster, Clare Reading, Howard Lancashire, Keefe Murphy 2004