1 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Anti-Digestant < Ash Tree Slab  |  Broken Toe > Central Arete >>

The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection, and polish. At the tree stump, finish left into the corner and up to a solid tree. A popular alternative finish can be made up the left-hand side of the detached flake, joining Broken Toe or finish direct at 4b.
FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959


There's no way this is VS, im sure it HS in the new book!, but still great fun and loads of gear.
mark thrush - 16/Aug/04

I think its fine at bottom end VS 4c and the new grade of HS 4a ia a joke compared to Ash Tree Wallalso at HS 4a which feels two grades easier.
There is no way the polished moves at 4m are 4a; there are more hard moves a few meters above as well.
SteveC - 18/Aug/04

I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flake finish is definitely at least 4b. It is well protected though.
Howard J - 04/May/05

Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what was left earlier in the year. A nice route, with a certain degree of interest in the middle, polished section. I finished left up to the solid tree belay. Certainly felt harder that Ash Tree Slab which I seconded today, just before I led this...
Dominion - 10/Oct/05

I would agree this is HS though I went up the variant finish which is borderline VS if only as the big "flake" (a pile of blocks just about attached to the wall) appears not to be long for this world. The finish through the polihed bulge is also interesting.

There is a BMC sign below this buttress which mentions loose rock. We were told by others that there didn't seem to be any loose rock but on climbing the flake I would have to disagree. Rather dangerous imo so beware.

The normal finish which heads left to finish seems fine in comparison and is certainly no harder than HS.
JonC - 04/Jun/07

Interesting comments. Did this yesterday, and I thought it nearer to S 4a or maybe S 4b! Certainly nowhere near the same grade as Carmen, which we also did.
There's no "loose rock" sign below this buttress any more by the way, though there is one some way further right, below the very suspect looking car-sized block!
Simon Caldwell - 17/Sep/07

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