Body Machine Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< The Full Monty < Introducing the Hardline According to Terrance Trout  |  Half Decent > An In and Out of Body Experience >>

A classic route with great moves throughout its full length, and includes a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the technical and fingery bottom wall, just to the right of the Indecent Exposure start, to the break and a rest at a flake. (Stick clip the second or third bolt when the bottom wall is wet - 7c for the full route from here). Move up and rightwards and make a hard rock-over to a good hold. More good moves lead to the next break and bit of a rest. Pull over and sort out which holds to use to shimmy rightwards before a final big heave over the top bulge.
FA. Ron Fawcett 1984. FA. (Half Decent) Mark Pretty 2008


Fine climb one of the best 7c's in the UK
Mark Glaister - 11/Nov/03

Three good rests and the famous break semi rest. One below rockover, one after it, one after upper trverse into niche just below the top. Final moves require real oomph.
bs - 02/Jan/04

As good as sport routes get.
Philip Smith - 24/Feb/04

Did this today with Zippy's direct start which climbs the wall behind the tree, but heading right via 2 bolts to belay of Jehovah kill. 7B+ to here and definitly harder and better than indecent start and r/w traverse. It is not polished at all and has some great moves. Linking through to Body machine belay becomes 7C+ and there is also an extension over top roof which makes it 8A.
craig devonshire - 21/Oct/07

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