The Girdle Traverse

3 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Delta-G < Entropy  |  Lay-by > Once in a Millennium >>

A great challenge but unfortunately, in its totality, not a great climb. The best pitches are 2, 3, 9 and 10 (the latter two being Debauchery in reverse and Delicatessen). Start on the ledge, as for World's End.
1) 5c, 20m. Follow World's End to the break then traverse right to reach the hole on Amber Gambler.
2) 6b, 16m. Continue along the break in a magnificent position (well pumpy) then reverse M1 to the small ledge.
3) 6a, 20m. Climb back up to the break and continue the traverse all the way to the Entropy flake. Drop down to a belay.
4) 6a, 18m. Easier moves lead across Lay-by. Climb up this then move right to a small ledge.
5) 5b, 12m. A bad pitch on grassy rock. Take the easiest line rightwards moving slightly up to gain a ledge.
6) 5a, 18m. Keep going across more grassy rock to the big gully (High Tor Gully). Drop down to belay.
7) 4c, 40m. Drop down and right and pick up a break which leads across into Skylight.
8) 4b, 35m. Climb up Skylight into the chimney then go diagonally across the wall, moving up to a hanging belay in a break.
9) 5b, 24m. Traverse rightwards to reach Debauchery. Reverse this to its stance.
10) 5b, 24m. Move right to Original Route and up to its belay. This is pitch 3 of Delicatessan.
11) 5a, 12m. Finish as for Original Route.
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1976. FA. J.Allison, R.Mansfield 1961. The first aided ascent took 25 hours to complete.


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