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Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance.
1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back).
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above.
FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964
well underrated; brilliant steep climbing. Doable as one pitch with a few long extenders.
toby - 08/Aug/08
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