2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Debauchery < Andromeda  |  Original Route > Tales of Yankee Power >>

A worthy route which deserves more attention and would get three stars on most other cliffs. The upper section feels a little bold but solid gear keeps appearing. Traverse left from the belay beneath Original Route. Move up then step left again to a small overlap - reachy. Alternatively, follow Debauchery a little further then move back right to the overlap. Climb direct from here (crux) to gain a crack. Climb this (peg and threads) to a final awkward section where the crack ends at a hole. Finish direct. A rather serious direct start is possible up the grassy lower slabs at E1 5b - peg runner out right.
FFA. Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1976. FA. Doug Scott, M.Terry 1968


I'd be interested to know if anyones tried the direct start - looks a lot harder then E1 5b. I did Persues by climbing Unoriginal Route for a few feet (peg) then making a hard traverse left to the overlap / flake (this point can be reached much more easily from Debauchery). Great direct sustained climbing from there.
Steve Burns - 01/Jul/03

Over-shaddowed by surrounding routes, but I thought it much better than your average 2* peak limestone route...
ChrisC - 17/Jun/04

Superb route and with a superdirect start straight up to the overlap without clipping the peg on the right! This was quite scary and runout with the hardest moves on the route I found. Only did this by mistake and recommend that you do it clipping the peg. Well done to whoever recently replaced the 4 insitu threads - absolute bombers!
ted - 23/Aug/04

A few small wires, some in-situ threads and old pegs protect. Steady climbing with some tricky moves between good holds. Probably done best with 60m ropes.
Ropeboy - 21/May/07

The fluttery symbol and "bold" description are worth ignoring, plenty of in situ gear, and plenty of bomber placements, not bold at all. Good route.
Ged Desforges - 03/Sep/07

Fantastic route. Going straight up to the overlap without the clipping the peg felt bold to me as the gear is low and dubious. Apart from that though, yes there are some run-out sections but if you keep moving there are no desperate moves. Don't know if this is a recent thing, but the big flake at the overlap felt so loose that I didn't bother putting any gear behind it.
Nick Learmont - 12/Oct/09

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