3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ride the Wild Surf < Great Balls of Fire  |  Pull My Daisy > Chewing the Cwd >>

A great route, although it often seeps on the crux, and is more like E5 when that is wet. A selection of trad gear and 15+ quickdraws is useful. Start by a large boulder below a line of weakness that goes the full height of the wall. Make difficult and polished moves to reach the first ledge, and follow the curving line of weakness up and right to another ledge at 12m. A step left, followed by an awkward pull up, leads to better holds. Then climb a crack to a pinnacle. From its top, move up and left into a niche, before it is possible to move back right to below a slanting V-groove capped by a roof. Move up into the V-groove, exiting it to the foot of a crack, left of the small roof. Hard moves up this, crux, lead to good flat holds. Traverse left to an airy mantelshelf. Then follow the ledges up and right to the top.
FA. P.Williams, A.Holmes 27.3.1986


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