Flaky Wall Top 50

3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Original Route < Tales of Yankee Power  |  Reproduction > Supersonic >>

Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some brilliant technical sequences. Start lower than Original Route as for Supersonic (this helps keep the wires on the crux in). Move up left and follow the crack as for Tales until the curving overlap on the right can be gained. Pull out right from this to a rest then climb direct up a peg-scarred crack (polished) to a good hold. Wander more easily rightwards up the dinner-plate flake and finish direct from its end.
FA. Doug Scott, Clive Davies 1961. The upper flake was much more friable making their ascent terrifying. The route was renamed every time someone removed one of the aid points. Ed Drummond called it Hook-Crook Wall (5 skyhooks) and Livesey renamed it Bulldog Wall (1 rest) in 1972. Ironically the FFA isn't known although it was renamed Flaky Wall anyway!


The peg -scarred crack is getting rather polished.
Graham Hoey - 27/Feb/02

Get the second man to stand below the crux wall (rather than by the tree) helps to keep the crucial runners in.
Chris Craggs - 28/Feb/02

Not really E4, come on soft for the grade.
Matt - 18/May/05

quality E4. great climb with testing moves all the way. beware the tricky move after the rest.
luke - 25/Apr/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.