Rainbow of Recalcitrance
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A mammoth outing up the line of the slab, and one that is as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the Rainbow peters out, and follow the crack up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge, gives access to the Rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the Rainbow, teeter right to the jugs on Poetry. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry, then move back down. Carry on right, making the gripper clipper to reach the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Carry on along the now-fading Rainbow. Clip a bolt - bold and difficult - then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this working your way back left to the belay.
FA. J.Silverster, M.Lynden 7.1984