3 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Flaky Wall < Reproduction  |  My New Hat > Bastille >>

Outstanding face-climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. All this, plus opportunities to recover in between, make this justifiably one of the most sought after routes of the grade in the country. Start just below the ledge of Original Route, below a short, capped groove up and right. Enter the groove (good low wire, peg) and climb it past two pegs to the top. Pull out right (wire) then back left to the rest on Flaky Wall. Follow this past its tricky bit and continue in a direct line up the pocketed wall to an exciting finish onto the ledge.
FA. Ron Fawcett, Geoff Birtles, Al Evans 1976


The sideways nut placement mentioned is all but blown out now, however there are still good placements a few feet lower.
Jon Fullwood - 10/Jun/04

Oh and the 'jug' at the end of the runout is full with soil and grass extending the length of the tricky section.
Jon Fullwood - 10/Jun/04

if you have no stamina (like me) it is quite possible to reach the ledge with your hands and become pumped, to then become gripped (like me), be unable to reverse (like me) and take a huge fall (like me)...ouch
paul hesketh - 10/Jun/04

Big High rise john, moanin about a bit of grass.
Awesome 4 * route, best in the Peak
phatlad - 27/Jun/05

Jug at end of run out cleaned aug 06
petesdavies - 25/Aug/06

Cleaned jug at end of run out today. 31st May 2007
Adam Lincoln - 31/May/07

I have no idea how you could fall off that final jug - it's huge and the 'exciting' move is 5b. Not as run-out as reputation suggests and no harder than 'tails IMO. Superb and sustained.
Alex Barrows - 04/May/08

Follow the comments and you'll see that the jug used to be full to the brim with mug and grass. When I did it the 'jug' was a grass/mud flatty. Don't get me wrong, it was still soft at E5 and the runout isn't huge.
boy - 17/Jun/08

The pegs in the starting groove are looking poor now.
Graham Hoey - 07/Oct/08

The pegs in the starting groove are now looking much better now.....replaced 08/10
Ian Milward - 21/Sep/10

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