The Edge of Time

2 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Grooves < Overhanging Arete  |  None > None >>

A tremendous route up the right arete of The Grooves. Start just right of The Grooves.
1) 5c, 28m Climb up to the overhang guarding the base of the groove in the arete. Undercut left to gain the groove and follow this to another roof. Move right round this to a good spike and then left round a second part of the roof. Belay below the next overhang in the arete.
2) 5b, 28m. Take the right-hand side of the overhanging arete to the break. Move back onto the edge of the arete and continue to a groove that leads you up and left onto easier-angle terrain. Move down and left to belay below a prow.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb up to the overhang, turning it on the left, and follow a thin crack into a groove. Follow this to get bridged onto a good spike at the top before reaching for the worryingly-thin flake. Move left onto a foothold on the arete and down to a rest in a groove near an odd hole. Step left to below a fin and head over this and up the crack above to belay on the good ledge.
4) 6a, 30m. Climb directly up to the jug on Overhanging Arete and follow this to the top.
FA. D.Lampard and team 18.6.1989


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