Cordon Bleau

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Gogarth < Resolution Direct  |  Imitator > Emulator >>

A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing is mostly pretty straightforward apart from the crux wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier, then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to find a small flake next to a slab that looks like it leads to oblivion. It is possible (maybe advisable) to abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel - see next page for overview.
1) 4a, 35m. Move out onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Below is a short chimney. Descend this and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake, and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab above. Then follow this slab/ramp left until you pass a possible small stance below a groove, continue traversing left a few more metres to below a chimney/groove, and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top.
FA. G.Birtles, P.Crew 21.5.1966


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