| E5 6a|
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A stiff little pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. it is an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory, move right for a few metres until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up and right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above is sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. Above, the climbing eases considerable and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back.
FA. J.Moran, P.Williams 12.5.1984