3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Chockstone Chimney < Maximum Hype  |  Wine Gums > Tally Not >>

14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, steep and stretchy and with plenty of buckets to swing about on. The finish feels a bit bolder and a long way off the ground and sadly the crucial runner placement is now very worn.
FA. Martin Boysen 1977


Large for grit. I wouldn't like to peel off the top on the lead.
rob w - 19/Dec/02

Good fun, gear placements getting a bit crumbly. Not quite 3 stars.
Mike Raine - 15/Sep/03

aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.
mark s - 07/Oct/03

Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
Fiend - 20/Nov/06

I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts!

Fantastic moves, though it's over very quickly, as the finish is basically gained via two big moves from the ledge. Keep those heels hooking!
Pythonist - 04/Feb/07

Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
Fiend - 08/Feb/07

Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
Pythonist - 13/Feb/07

Visited last night and the crux protection is looking extremely worn - no nut protection now available in the slot, and the expansion of the crumbly cam placement makes it dubious.
JAMES ROGERS - 16/May/08

Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very sad to see. Big enough cam might still make it safe but will obviously increase the damage.
Eric Hildrew - 12/Apr/10

Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket and can be backed up by another large can just below (my Friend 4 was a little small for the placement), though the quality of the rock is poor in the pocket I am sure that it will still hold a few falls BUT this is not a route to throw yourself at and fall off repeatedly as it will destroy the protection - one to be left for when you are proficient at the grade and it hopefully will remain a classic at the grade for a number of years.
simon cox - 14/Apr/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 44
    hard E3 0 of 15
    E3 0 of 15
    easy E3 0 of 15
    hard E2 2 of 15
    E2 11 of 15
    easy E2 2 of 15
    hard E1 0 of 15
    E1 0 of 15
    easy E1 0 of 15
    hard 6a 0 of 15
    6a 0 of 15
    easy 6a 0 of 15
    hard 5c 0 of 15
    5c 0 of 15
    easy 5c 0 of 15
    hard 5b 0 of 15
    5b 0 of 15
    easy 5b 0 of 15
    hard 5a 0 of 15
    5a 0 of 15
    easy 5a 0 of 15
    hard 4c 0 of 15
    4c 0 of 15
    easy 4c 0 of 15
    hard 4b 0 of 15
    4b 0 of 15
    easy 4b 0 of 15
    hard 4a 0 of 15
    4a 0 of 15
    easy 4a 0 of 15
    hard 3c 0 of 15
    3c 0 of 15
    easy 3c 0 of 15
    hard 3b 0 of 15
    3b 0 of 15
    easy 3b 0 of 15
    hard 3a 0 of 15
    3a 0 of 15
    easy 3a 0 of 15
    hard 2c 0 of 15
    2c 0 of 15
    easy 2c 0 of 15
    hard 2b 0 of 15
    2b 0 of 15
    easy 2b 0 of 15
    hard 2a 0 of 15
    2a 0 of 15
    easy 2a 0 of 15
    hard ?? 2 of 15
    ?? 12 of 15
    easy ?? 1 of 15
    3 Stars 7 of 14
    2 Stars 7 of 14
    1 Star 0 of 14
    0 Stars 0 of 14
    Bag of ..... 0 of 14

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.