Heart of Gold

3 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Schittlegruber < Left-hand Red Wall  |  Pagan > Deygo/Infidel Direct >>

A great wall climb with a loose and committing first pitch but worth it for the brilliant second pitch. Start in the gully as for Left-hand Red Wall.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb the groove as for LHRW for a few metres, until it is possible to traverse out right across a steep bulging wall above the overlap. This leads to a rest in a niche, before you can follow the diagonal crack up rightwards to a hanging belay.
2) 6a, 40m. Above is a peg in an overlap, make your way up to this, large wire to back up the peg and carry on for a further 3m to a heart-in-mouth traverse right to a shallow groove. Follow this until it peters out, and make a move left to a good spike with relief. (Heart of Gold Direct goes direct from the peg in the overlap to the spike at a bolder E6). A rightwards-diagonal crack leads to a niche. A steep move to exit this joins the final pumpy crack of Left-hand Red Wall.
FA. M.Fowler, P.Thomas 16.8.1978


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