Sub Cneifion Rib

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Scimitar Crack < Scimitar Wall  |  Cneifion Arete > Suicide Wall Route 1 >>

An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right.
FA. J.M.Edwards 12.7.1931


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