3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Moorhuhn Winter Edition < Silberruecken  |  None > None >>

A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. Although it can be reached from above by four abseils (35m, 25m, 35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping) to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via the Cala del Testos if required) then traverse to the start of the route.
1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab.
2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay.
3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar.
4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge.
5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance.
5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope.
6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay.


Hagen Goetzke - 05/Jun/18

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.