Magnifici Quattro

1 Stars
Pumpy
 VF6B

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Col Ombert/Kaiserjeger > None >>


Magnifici Quattro is an equipped route in the Val San Nicolò. The via ferrata is dedicated to the 'Magnificent Four'; Alex, Diego, Erwin and Luca from the Italian Mountain Rescue, who tragically died whilst on a rescue mission in the Val Lasties on the 26th December 2009. This is currently the hardest via ferrata in the Dolomites been of greater difficulty than Ski Club 18 and Cesare Piazzetta. Despite being relatively accessible and low in altitude the via ferrata should not be underestimated, particularly if any of the sections of cable are wet. It is advisable to take a rope if you are unsure as retreat is difficult. The difficulty of the route means that it is often hard to climb using only the rock, so several sections become an exercise in wire hauling (via ferrata gloves advised). This is further exacerbated by a layer of fine silt and dust that often covers much of the rock, making purchase that much more difficult. The wire follows a deep fissure between the rocks for the meat of the route which gives atmosphere but does restrict the views of the surrounding area. Despite this, the wire is easily accessible, the aerial assault course is good fun (particularly the steep traverse) and the top-out at the very pleasant Rifugio Baita Cuz is a nice way to end the day! It is also possible to combine this route with via ferrata Col Ombert via path 613 for those masochists who want a huge day out.
Approach - The via ferrata is situated in the entrance to the Val San Nicolò - a beautiful valley running east from Pozza di Fassa. From Canazei, take the SS48 to the west in the direction of Campitello. After 11km you will reach Pozza di Fassa just past Pera. Drive through the centre of the town following signs for the 'Val San Nicolò'. Follow the road up, passing Rifugio Soldanella on the left, as far as Rifugio Malga Crocifisso and a small chapel on the right after 2km. There is parking directly under the via ferrata further up the road but it is very limited and it is best to park at the lower spot.
Follow the road to the east for 30m until the road forks. Take the left-hand fork, over a bridge across the stream. Follow the road uphill for 500m until you see a small wooden bridge, and larger stone bridge crossing the stream on your left, leading to a wood and stone hut. On the hut is the first sign for the via ferrata along with a sign warning you about the elevated difficulties of the route. Take the signed path to the right of the building through the woods on the left-hand side of the stream. After 10 minutes the path forks. Turn left, following signs for the via ferrata, then shortly after the path forks again. Continue straight across as indicated by another sign. A further 10 minutes of steep zig-zagging brings you out of the trees where the path leads to a large cleft between the rock faces. Here you will find the wire alongside a memorial plaque and another warning sign.
VF - The start of the wire is immediately steep and difficult giving you a taste of what is to come. The route heads into the back of the cleft which can be wet, before a rising traverse back left gives the first proper view of the surrounding landscape. The wire then traverses back into the cleft along a white slab. Continue on easier ground until you reach the final corner at the top of the cleft. Capping roofs force the wire out right providing the overhanging crux traverse. A couple of rungs and stemples helps you out of the corner and gets you established onto the traverse properly. It is really well protected and clipping over the numerous short sections of wire can get tiring. Another short vertical section at the end of the traverse brings you up into the trees and ends the first section of wire.
Follow the continuation path east through the trees which contours along underneath the cliff face. The path is well marked and within 10 minutes you encounter sporadic sections of cabling that alternate with steep path. Here you start getting excellent views of the two towers that stand guard over the Val San Nicolò. It soon becomes apparent the path is aiming for another large cleft at the base of the left-hand tower where the second main section of cable begins.
The wire leads steeply onto a blunt arete on the left wall of the cleft. After a time the angle eases off slightly until you reach a large ledge system leading out left. Walk around the corner to a series of stemples that lead up the left-hand arete to the summit book. From here a final traverse left with one difficult move brings you to the summit and Rifugio Baita Cuz.
Descent - From Rifugio Baita Cuz and the summit there are several descent options:
The most scenic and best option, proving you don't mind descending on foot, is to follow a small path to the east into the Val San Nicolò itself. Follow signs to the 'Val San Nicolò' and 'Punto Panoramico Maerins'. The path initially sets off in the direction you came from, before swinging to the left. After 5 minutes the path forks. Right leads up to an out and back viewpoint which is well worth a look. Turn left to continue the descent which eventually brings you down onto the Val San Nicolò valley floor. Turn right onto the main track and head down the valley for 20 minutes back to Rifugio Malga Crocifisso and the car.
Alternatively you can walk down the large track 613 to the west in the direction of Rifugio Buffaure. You can then either take the Telecabina Pozza Buffaure (public transport can be used to get back to your car) or turn onto path 643 and follow subsequent signs down a vehicle track back to Rifugio Malga Crocifisso.

USER COMMENTS

we found this significantly harder than sci club 18 and more committing. The first part was very wet. Nevertheless; well-protected and worthy of the only vf in the guide with grade 6
theclarkes - 05/Sep/16

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.