The Coign

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Jammed Stone Gully < Slanting Chimney  |  Outlook Slab > Wall End Crack Direct >>

The attractive angular arete. Climb the short crack and lower arete, then step awkwardly up onto the main arete which is followed past a couple of steeper moves at half-height.
FA. Geoffrey Sutton 1958


Really a very good route, the starting crack being a little easy at Severe. After this the arete is tackled a litle on both sides. Actually surmounting the top of the arete is a little bold and very exciting.
Woker - 17/Sep/02

Nice route, if a little bold up the 4b slab. The move to attain the main break is unprotected, making this route VS 4b in my opinion (which is what the new BMC Stanage Guide gives it). If you lob here, you will go far... The crux move up to the arete after the slab, although well protected if you have large cams, does not smack of 4b. It is more like 4c; especially in temperatures of 28 degrees celsius! Would not recommend this route if you're looking at your first HS lead.
James McN - 29/Jun/03

Thought this was a great route. The steep section is trickier than it looks from the bottom and certainly feels quite out there. It's a tough HS, but very worthwhile.
Kinsei - 27/Aug/03

James has this absoutely right.
rob k - 28/Jun/04

I did not think the start was unprotected when I did it. Certainly need large cams (for the top) for this to feel HS. A cracking little route.
Woker - 29/Jun/04

A good route with some reasonable run outs to get you thinking if you are close to your limits. Harder than I expected as the '89 guide has it at Severe! I didn't use any large cams though, I protected the crux with a nut in the break.
Dave F - 14/Jul/04

I guess the nut you mention was bellow your feet as you sumounted the top of the arrete (crux), as I used similar, large cams also allow gear above you for this move
Woker - 15/Jul/04

There are bomber nuts and small/medium cams for all the tricky parts, the rets is very easy although run-out in the middle. Fair at HS.
SidH - 12/Aug/05

Nice climb and easy on the arms when you're pumped from lay-backing and jamming round the corner. The easy slab section on the front face is slightly run-out, plenty of gear in the breaks. A big cam goes in the break before the nicly exposed crux on the arete.
munky - 05/Aug/06

A direct start strictly up the left hand side of the lower arete is a short but interesting variation - requiring a couple of delicate balancy friction laybacks. Out of keeping with the rest of the climb at 5b-ish but worthwhile for a second wanting something spicier!
kristian birchall - 06/Aug/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 100
    hard VS 0 of 33
    VS 0 of 33
    easy VS 10 of 33
    hard HS 8 of 33
    HS 14 of 33
    easy HS 1 of 33
    hard0 of 33
    0 of 33
    easy0 of 33
    hard 4c 0 of 34
    4c 0 of 34
    easy 4c 1 of 34
    hard 4b 14 of 34
    4b 19 of 34
    easy 4b 0 of 34
    hard 4a 0 of 34
    4a 0 of 34
    easy 4a 0 of 34
    3 Stars 4 of 33
    2 Stars 25 of 33
    1 Star 4 of 33
    0 Stars 0 of 33
    Bag of ..... 0 of 33

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