Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 8
12m. The wide crack in the groove is 'absolutely perpendicular' and also quite steep. Classic bridging or technical thrutching are the usual forms of progress. The upper part is easier.
BMC gives this Severe, and I started up it unable to see much gear but assuming there would be some on the breaks or hidden in the chimney at the grade. There isn't a whole lot! Micro wires are useful, there's a blind nut in the chimney, then the first good gear is a couple of small ish came in the high break on the left. Still, once you realise it's pretty bold and scary, the moves are pretty interesting and technical (and don't involved that thrutching unfortunately). We reckoned VS 4b, although it was a damp day and the top was a bit green and slimey, so may have affected judgement. Side walls had enough fricton to make it climbable though.