Wall End Flake Crack

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Wall End Crack Direct < Death, Night and Blood  |  Wall End Holly Tree Crack > I Never Said It Was Any Good >>

Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of these by laybacking and jamming. Big gear needed.
FA. Fred Pigott and friends, early 1920s


Stopping to place gear is a b*gger, so make sure you have something good in before you commit to the layback.
Graham - 29/Jan/02

If placing gear is a problem, then try jamming it! Anyway, too close to the next route right to achieve true independence. Demerit by one star.
David Jones - 16/Apr/02

I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky.
DaveF - 08/Dec/03

People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places.
DaveF - 08/Dec/03

Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off!
cider nut - 30/Oct/05

I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route.
Si - 12/Feb/06

Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet!
munky - 05/Aug/06

Really enjoyed this route has all the gritstone ingredients of hand jams, laybacks, armlocks and even a knee bar. Fab.
albie niedojadlo - 09/Jun/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 73
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