The Archangel

3 Stars
 E3 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Saul's Arete < Dark Angel  |  Don > Goliath's Groove >>

A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier above.
FA. Ed-Ward Drummond 1972


What a beautiful line! A fine route of at least 4 stars.
Michael Birkby - 23/Sep/03

A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.
John Camateras - 26/Oct/03

Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
Paul Phillips - 06/Sep/04

what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
furrymonkey - 18/Apr/05

By the time you get to the gear it's all over, so don't worry about it! Amazing route **********
Matt - 18/May/05

I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
Simon Lee - 13/Oct/05

Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
Ian Patterson - 14/Oct/05

Climbed it 30 years ago; too fat, old, soft, responsible (?) now
dave morgan - 19/Dec/06

Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascent: look down over your left shoulder after a few moves. Then don't look down again.
Jon Stewart - 23/Nov/11

Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too bad.
Paul Phillips - Rockfax - 07/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard E4 0 of 22
    E4 0 of 22
    easy E4 3 of 22
    hard E3 9 of 22
    E3 10 of 22
    easy E3 0 of 22
    hard E2 0 of 22
    E2 0 of 22
    easy E2 0 of 22
    hard 5c 0 of 22
    5c 0 of 22
    easy 5c 2 of 22
    hard 5b 7 of 22
    5b 13 of 22
    easy 5b 0 of 22
    hard 5a 0 of 22
    5a 0 of 22
    easy 5a 0 of 22
    3 Stars 17 of 17
    2 Stars 0 of 17
    1 Star 0 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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