North Buttress Arete Direct

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Slab < Green Crack  |  North Buttress Arete > North Buttress Arete Indirect >>


10m. A great route though with a bold start. Pull onto the arete and climb its bulging left-hand side throughout. Thought by some to be the best route on the cliff.

USER COMMENTS

Probably the hardest of the VS routes at Windgather, with sustained and poorly protected climbing in its lower half. Perhaps even a soft HVS?
Nick Smith - 02/Aug/03

Top route, recomendable, though I don't think as unprotectable as all that, I've you've got the right cams. There's the pocket at the bottom that took (from memory) a nice Camalot 3.
Ander - 18/Aug/03

A superb route in a great location, rather exposed, the rockfax route is hardly direct though, if done direct protection is sparce.
Simon A - 02/Mar/04

Found it ok if you stick to the arete - although didn't find much protection. The dotted line in the guidebook seems to suggest you start left of the arete which I found terrifying for a VS!
Reds - 07/Jun/04

Worryingly poorly protected at the start, I didn't trust the cam in the pocket, but a step right allows a runner to be placed on the right of the arete. Once I'd summoned up the courage to go for it, I found the whole thing much easier than expected, while I'd love it if this were HVS I think it's no more than VS 4c.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Jul/04

A wicked solo, Pretty scary but easily escapable if you have a look. Actually found it harder to lead cos I was hanging around for too long looking for gear placements. Best climb at Windgather.
CJ - 22/Jul/05

That bottom pocket took a hex 8 really well. Top route, but not too hard for VS. Great climbing pretty much all the way.
richard lackey - 17/Oct/05

The runner in the bottom pocket just gets in the way & is too low to protect the hard bit, just apply a bit of oomph, the jugs do turn up after the reach, honest
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

This is the best route on the cliff!
Matt1000 - 22/Apr/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard HVS 0 of 21
    HVS 0 of 21
    easy HVS 0 of 21
    hard VS 8 of 21
    VS 11 of 21
    easy VS 2 of 21
    hard HS 0 of 21
    HS 0 of 21
    easy HS 0 of 21
    hard 5b 0 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    hard 5a 0 of 14
    5a 0 of 14
    easy 5a 0 of 14
    hard 4c 0 of 14
    4c 0 of 14
    easy 4c 0 of 14
    hard 4b 0 of 14
    4b 0 of 14
    easy 4b 0 of 14
    hard 4a 0 of 14
    4a 0 of 14
    easy 4a 0 of 14
    hard 3c 0 of 14
    3c 0 of 14
    easy 3c 0 of 14
    hard 3b 0 of 14
    3b 0 of 14
    easy 3b 0 of 14
    hard 3a 0 of 14
    3a 0 of 14
    easy 3a 0 of 14
    hard 2c 0 of 14
    2c 0 of 14
    easy 2c 0 of 14
    hard 2b 0 of 14
    2b 0 of 14
    easy 2b 0 of 14
    hard 2a 0 of 14
    2a 0 of 14
    easy 2a 0 of 14
    hard ?? 0 of 14
    ?? 0 of 14
    easy ?? 9 of 14
    hard ?? 5 of 14
    ?? 0 of 14
    easy ?? 0 of 14
    3 Stars 4 of 20
    2 Stars 15 of 20
    1 Star 1 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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