Valkyrie Direct

2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Sidewinder < Via Dolorosa  |  Matinee > Valkyrie >>

28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete.
FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951


Great fun.
Mike Raine - 07/Mar/02

A traditional gritstone fight and more 5b than 5a, esp for the short.
mps - 03/Sep/02

A flake broke off just below the overhang about 7-10 years ago, and it's now much harder than straightforward HVS 5a. I couldnt do it when I was climbing comfortably at that standard. Either very strenuous and awkward if you get jammed in the overhanging crack with no good finishing holds or jams, or wild technical wide bridging of about 5c standard ... or did I miss something? Who's done it recently?
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

I did it in summer 2002 and it seemed correctly graded, but I like jamming. Don't think too hard at the overhang, 'just' jam through, fists being the key, and quite strenuous. Another thing - I would recommend making sure to enjoy the original Valkyrie before doing this one. The overhang takes you straight into the middle of the Valkryie crux, revealing all the key footholds, and makes it feel about V Diff.
Alan - 11/Jul/03

the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a)
mark s - 01/Oct/03

The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear)

Which is the right way to go?
Simon Lee - 25/Oct/04

I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly
daveagriff - 14/Jul/05

Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch!
Smelly Fox - 10/Oct/05

Which bit are people referring to as the crux? I found the moves through the roof up to the flake tricky but okay (was only seconding). I found the moves up the crack just after the bit of traverse it shares with Valkyrie desperate as the crack was too wide for me to fist jam - although when I fell off I noticed a face hold that I'd previous been oblivious to as I'd been to busy trying to hang onto a pebble, and once I stood on that it was way easier.
cider nut - 09/Apr/08

I thought the crux was that final wide crack after the traverse from the flake (it's where I fell off anyway), though the moves through the roof also felt about 5b to me.
Julie Mair - 17/Jul/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 43
    hard E1 0 of 23
    E1 0 of 23
    easy E1 1 of 23
    hard HVS 14 of 23
    HVS 7 of 23
    easy HVS 0 of 23
    hard VS 1 of 23
    VS 0 of 23
    easy VS 0 of 23
    hard 5c 0 of 11
    5c 0 of 11
    easy 5c 0 of 11
    hard 5b 0 of 11
    5b 0 of 11
    easy 5b 0 of 11
    hard 5a 0 of 11
    5a 0 of 11
    easy 5a 0 of 11
    hard 4c 0 of 11
    4c 0 of 11
    easy 4c 0 of 11
    hard 4b 0 of 11
    4b 0 of 11
    easy 4b 0 of 11
    hard 4a 0 of 11
    4a 0 of 11
    easy 4a 0 of 11
    hard 3c 0 of 11
    3c 0 of 11
    easy 3c 0 of 11
    hard 3b 0 of 11
    3b 0 of 11
    easy 3b 0 of 11
    hard 3a 0 of 11
    3a 0 of 11
    easy 3a 0 of 11
    hard 2c 0 of 11
    2c 0 of 11
    easy 2c 0 of 11
    hard 2b 0 of 11
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    easy 2b 0 of 11
    hard 2a 0 of 11
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    easy 2a 0 of 11
    hard ?? 2 of 11
    ?? 6 of 11
    easy ?? 2 of 11
    hard ?? 1 of 11
    ?? 0 of 11
    easy ?? 0 of 11
    3 Stars 1 of 9
    2 Stars 6 of 9
    1 Star 2 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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