The Mincer

3 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Swan < Swan Bank  |  Smear Test > Pincer >>

24m. Boulder up into the hanging groove then mince rightwards awkwardly (especially if you're long-legged) to pass the nose and climb the excellent gradually-widening cracks above.
FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans 1981


Simply hideous! Even once you've 'minced' around the lip on the traverse, you are still faced with a slopey unprotected off-width and chimney above...
Nick Smith - 12/Jun/03

Goodness gracious me! Well what can I say? This one left me bemused and not amused, with a second who was equally confused...
Graham Lynch - 27/Jun/03

I liked this one. Took me bloody ages though. Start is excellent, off-width is just plain hard work. Also take a big cam (a really big cam) and use it a la Blood Sweat and Bagels i.e. drag the thing up with you. Ethicially sound - no, but very reasuring.
Darren - 06/Oct/03

Agreed, hideos, and a classic sandbag. Nick once you've done the traverse, you can chuck cams in the crack all the way up to the chockstone though
simon.a - 24/May/04

Horrible. Failed miserably.Possibly the only route i wish i`d never tried.
Mick B - 27/Dec/04

I hated this one, I thought the harder for the tall made it a suitable challenge. My rope took some damage falling off and back round the corner as I tried to layback the crack! Hopefully I agree with the comment about wishing I'd never tried it!
Iggy_B - 07/Jan/05

Possibly the hardest part is to avoid getting the ropes locked up higher up !

Excellent one to point the climbing wall merchants at.
GrahamD - 12/Jan/05

remeber when i did friend 3 walked in and fell out.handy rearly then i could use it in the upper crack
shaundkia - 01/Feb/05

Brilliant- a proper fight.
Scouse D - 25/Apr/05

Great climb, but more fun getting others to do it and then watching.
nate - 18/May/05

flew up the crack danced along the traverse gained the ledge lay backed the crack pulled onto the top !!!!! aaaaagh rope jamed below me pulling me off balance.An undignified landing back on the ledge resulted in a bust ankle and the end of climbing for that year.Matt said its not called mincer for nothing.git
gypo - 08/Jun/05

The upper crack was sweet.
daveagriff - 14/Jul/05

Really hard. Fell off on second. The jamming cracks are amazing, but i couldnt bunch myself up under the roof. Later i seconded Sauls Crack (HVS), then lead Humdinger (E1), and Commander Energy (E2), found this much harder than all three!
James W - 06/Mar/06

slam the jams in backwards. There's a jug in there if you do. Enjoy the pain. Go for it
April 78 saw Jonesey go for it on Kicking Bird.
Scared the shit outa me.
Elegy is the best route on the lower tioer.
rob cope - 05/Apr/06

Loved it! Did get a little minced, but thats part of the fun. Not the most elegant climbing Ive ever done though. If you enjoy a challange give it a go.
Steven Dorsett - 22/Apr/07

At last - a short mans route. Loved it, though I did second it last year for a mate - so missed the on-sight. A tough on-sight for the grade I would have thought.
Jon Leighton - 21/May/07

I really enjoyed this. The upper crack is a breeze after having done the traverse and exit at the bottom. Bomber chockstone protecting the upper section. The hard bit for me was the bouldery start!
Mario - 05/Nov/07

The spectators enjoyed me suffering. I enjoyed the route once it was over! Hats off to Brown and Whillans again.
Shaw Brown - 17/Feb/08

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 98
    hard E1 0 of 34
    E1 0 of 34
    easy E1 5 of 34
    hard HVS 11 of 34
    HVS 17 of 34
    easy HVS 1 of 34
    hard VS 0 of 34
    VS 0 of 34
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    hard 5c 0 of 34
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    easy 5c 0 of 34
    hard 5b 0 of 34
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    easy 5b 0 of 34
    hard 5a 0 of 34
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    hard 4c 0 of 34
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    easy 4c 0 of 34
    hard 4b 0 of 34
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    hard 4a 0 of 34
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    hard 3c 0 of 34
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    easy 3c 0 of 34
    hard 3b 0 of 34
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    hard 3a 0 of 34
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    hard 2c 0 of 34
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    hard 2b 0 of 34
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    hard 2a 0 of 34
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    easy 2a 0 of 34
    hard ?? 7 of 34
    ?? 24 of 34
    easy ?? 3 of 34
    3 Stars 22 of 30
    2 Stars 6 of 30
    1 Star 2 of 30
    0 Stars 0 of 30
    Bag of ..... 0 of 30

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