Sifta's Quid

1 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Prow Cracks Variations < Sifta's Quid Inside Route  |  Obsession Fatale > Piece of Mind >>

The tricky bulging crack-line was named after a bet that the crag was worked out; well it wasn't forty years ago and it probably isn't now!
FA. John Amies 1968


who's squeezed under the boulder?
hoseyb - 20/Feb/02

I have. Don't bother with a helmet... it gets stuck. A nut can stop the rope jamming under the boulder, which is handy.
Jon - 23/Apr/02

great fun to watch your mates getting stuck at the boulder.
jon - 19/Dec/02

I have also. Brilliant fun.
Michael - 25/Mar/03

BRilliant Route! I didn't squeeze under the boulder as thats stupid! The gear at the top was bombing and it definately pays to get onto the arete lower down near the top otherwise you face dislocating your shoulders to reach a LH hand and bicep jam and a dodgy push off smear on the arete! Definately worth 3 stars though!
Andy Townsend - 03/Jul/03

This move was utterly impossible. Its easier to escape onto Obsession Fatale (E8 6c) for top out.
jackie - 27/Aug/03

I squeezed through the boulder and it was ace, though a rope and a rack was more of a hinderance than a help. Solo it, the bottom is easy. In fact isn't squeezing under the boulder more like VDiff 6a?
victim of mathematics - 17/Jul/04

this really really hurt. after going under the boulder my body feels like it has been sanded down.
great fun though, especially as we had a video camera to record all teh heavy breathing, and much cursing.
one thing i would say is if you can easily be too tall or to broadt for this. too tall and you can bend round teh corner.
to broad and you just get stuck.
have to say i don't think i'll ever feel the need to do this route again but glad i did.
Joanna - 05/Sep/04

Escaped rightwards onto the Obsession Fatale for top out. Awkward but very enjoyable.
Chris Sellars - 21/Feb/05

Absolutely fantastic
hard work but deffinately worth the skin loss just for the amusement.
Dont think i would like to try it if i was any bigger than i am.
Woulsnt advise trying it in any clothing you value and deffinately no gear as it will only slow you down
A Downing - 30/May/05

Climbing over the huge round boulder on the 'ledge' at half-height, rather than squirming under it, makes the climb a lot more interesting.

Agree with Andy regarding the top although it felt secure to jam in this way. All that remains is to raise your right foot (thigh almost touching chest... ouch!) to an obvious foothold on the arete, at about chest level, and stand up.
mcjsspt - 08/Aug/05

Surely the line in the Western Grit topo for the inside route is wroing? It shows it going under the boulders at about half height, which is possible, and quite fun, but so full of earth that it's obviously hardly ever done. Whereas the route behind the boulder in the crack at the top is well worn.
Simon Caldwell - 06/Nov/06

Where is the crux of this route as i found that i could go over the boulder at half height (where the guide book say's is the crux) easily but then got stuck trying to get onto the slab. Also is the squeeze at the mid height boulders or at the top of the route?
Alec Folley - 17/Nov/06

Having thoroughly enjoyed watching the flailing legs of my (somewhat scrawny) boyfriend as he grunted his way through the hole, it was my turn. Unfortunately, having run out of things to push my feet against and having one half-dislocated arm wedged against my ear - no amount of grunting and cursing could get my lady butt through that hole! I was forced to hang my head in shame and down climb to my sandwiches.
The Cake Python - 10/Aug/07

Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though, left hand arm jam, left foot in crack, right foot on face, right hand palming on face and the rest is history. that notched up 100th climb this year.
Paul Hyland - 19/Aug/11

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard VS 0 of 23
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    3 Stars 7 of 17
    2 Stars 1 of 17
    1 Star 7 of 17
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