3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Heather Slab < Capitol Climb  |  Live Bait > West's Wallaby >>

20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. Cams behind the creaky flakes in the roof are a bad idea.
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960


Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...
RobS - 13/Jul/02

no chance its a jug fest all the way
mark s - 14/Jul/02

It does look like a section of the flake has come away, but Mark S is right, good holds all the way.

With this in mind, placing a friend early on in the big flake is fairly solid, but it is not necessary to place further pro as the flake continues.
Adrian P - 24/Jul/02

Found the start the hardest bit!Hard move from a sloper to a good ledge.After that youv'e just gotta grit your teeth and keep going.Everythings positive so just thug it.
big al - 13/Aug/02

Watch out placing gear in the flakes, it moves an awful lot just climbing through it. Cams may just damage it beyond hope. The first bit of flake has come away, have a pic from 89 and one from 02 and its gone.
Arran Willis - 19/Oct/02

Does anybody think that a friend placed at the end of the flake will hold? I didn't place this as I was convinced that the flake would snap and I'd have to contend with large falling pieces of rock as well as falling onto the slab.
Stuntman - 12/May/03

Found the start really hard. Would you deck out if fell going for thread break? I reckon you would!!!!!
Not 5B!
Mick T - 17/Jul/03

Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
Davros the Psyched - 30/Jan/06

Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something!

Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat!
Pythonist - 21/Aug/06

Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
wayne peplow - 01/Oct/06

I climbed the superb roof left of this late last year at about E3 5c. I have named it CAN YOU SEE WHAT IT IS YET? You can place a bit of gear on the right before launching out across the roof. It is gained via the short arete below. It was done on sight, somthing rather new to me in recent years, in fact in most of my new routing life!
Themaninblack - 07/Mar/07

The roof is easy, certainly NOT BOLD and barely E1. In fact, Flying Buttress Direct is a much harder onsight. The crux of the route is the first three moves up the slab which is a boulder problem above a dodgy landing. Why then does the description not reflect this?
Jon Leighton - 15/Jun/08

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 91
    hard E3 0 of 31
    E3 0 of 31
    easy E3 1 of 31
    hard E2 5 of 31
    E2 17 of 31
    easy E2 5 of 31
    hard E1 3 of 31
    E1 0 of 31
    easy E1 0 of 31
    hard 5c 0 of 31
    5c 0 of 31
    easy 5c 0 of 31
    hard 5b 0 of 31
    5b 0 of 31
    easy 5b 0 of 31
    hard 5a 0 of 31
    5a 0 of 31
    easy 5a 0 of 31
    hard 4c 0 of 31
    4c 0 of 31
    easy 4c 0 of 31
    hard 4b 0 of 31
    4b 0 of 31
    easy 4b 0 of 31
    hard 4a 0 of 31
    4a 0 of 31
    easy 4a 0 of 31
    hard 3c 0 of 31
    3c 0 of 31
    easy 3c 0 of 31
    hard 3b 0 of 31
    3b 0 of 31
    easy 3b 0 of 31
    hard 3a 0 of 31
    3a 0 of 31
    easy 3a 0 of 31
    hard 2c 0 of 31
    2c 0 of 31
    easy 2c 0 of 31
    hard 2b 0 of 31
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    hard 2a 0 of 31
    2a 0 of 31
    easy 2a 0 of 31
    hard ?? 0 of 31
    ?? 0 of 31
    easy ?? 2 of 31
    hard ?? 8 of 31
    ?? 20 of 31
    easy ?? 1 of 31
    3 Stars 12 of 29
    2 Stars 15 of 29
    1 Star 1 of 29
    0 Stars 0 of 29
    Bag of ..... 1 of 29

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