Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 136
1) 4a, 14m. Balance up the crux slab then follow the crack to a stance below the bulges. 2) 8m. Move right and squirm up the groove to outflank the overhangs then finish direct up the arete or the face to its left (8m). A left-hand start drops the grade a notch.
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the route should finish up the face not the arete
It's finished up the arete for as long as I can remember...
The upper section of the route starts on the arete and trends left onto the face. It is sadly bypassed by many as it looks increadibly bold and unlikely when in fact it is just exposed on good holds. The start up the centre of the slab is also bold but you can traverse in from the corner (which in itself provides a nice Diff ....again with an optional finish moving right on the top wall but be careful with some loose blocks directly above the corner). Experts leading for beginners can always try the direct moves over the centre of the overlap at getting on for 5c.
For the past twenty years I have thought that by far the best route is to stick rigidly to the centre of the slab and then take the overhang in the same line. This makes a classic line.
The chipped nut runner placement on the lower slab is already very worn and now almost useless. We'd previously overlooked the juggy right side of the upper arete: very worthwhile if you've climbed the route before.
Again this is Vdiff, slightly bold start, and the chipped runners are now very worn as offwidth as pointed out.
Agree with Paul Smith, V Diff, and surely not a Top 50 route
this route is easy for a 4a and i had to finish up the face because there was a rather annoying father teaching his son something in the chimmney so iwent to have my lunch to give him time to move he hadent moved half an hour later. i thin kthe face is perfectly good.
Don't think this is S but was a very enjoyable lead.
Great route, and deserving of top50. Easily done as 1 pitch by extending the runner on the balcony. Squirm onto the ledge, up the arete 3ft, place gear, then swing onto the front face and enjoy the jugs and exposure for the last few moves. The very lowest section is bold, and getting onto the ledge above the balcony is awkward, but HVD 4a overall seems fair.