Jeffcoat's Chimney

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Saul's Crack < Humdinger  |  Jeffcoat's Buttress > Hanging Around >>

A classic of considerable antiquity.<br/>1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished and awkward to protect) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. The wide bit is avoidable to the right at a lower grade.<br/>2) 6m. Move left then right to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c).
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913


this description is totally inadequate
jonathan prager - 09/Mar/02

Pretty reasonable description considering the route.
Tricky moves in the middle to get out of the wide chimney into the narrower upper section. Fun route
daniel sells - 22/Mar/03

Not sure what could be added to the description, unless Jonathan meant the last (5a) section - does this go up the right or the left of the final wall? I suspect the answer is 'either'.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Mar/03

I agree with jonathon the 2nd pitch is badly described, I even think the line is in the wrong place on the diagram !
Woker - 17/May/04

The first pitch is great, though a little stiff for VDiff in places (great gear makes up for it though). The second pitch up the left of the wall behind the belay ledge is not VDiff, at least Severe if not HS surely, though it is only little.
Victim of Mathematics - 21/Feb/05

On a damp morning at Easter, the very last move was very slippery indeed, although fortunately well-protected.
AdrianFagg - 31/Mar/05

Being fairly new to climbing im still comming to an understanding about grades on the routes, but doesnt the VD part of the grade give you the exposure and gear placement rating? because i couldnt find any gear to place until i was around 6-8 mtrs off the ground.... Can this really be Vdiff? as for the move at the top i have climbed VS that i found less exposed.... Forgive my ignorance... if it is.
Kev Brosnahan - 05/Jun/06

Climbed in three pitches using old 1971 guidebook. Describes three variations to rockfax's one. Tackled chimney direct but where was the pro on the first section? Only my 5th V diff lead but in comparison to Prow Corner (Roches Lower) it was hard to protect in the lower chimney. A struggle, but enjoyable overall.
Ben Hammond - 22/Jul/06

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