Wings of Unreason Top 50

3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Track of the Cat < Nature Trail  |  Counterstroke of Equity > Prelude to Space >>

10m. The tough start gains the centre of the slab and a runner slot. Mantel then stretch/leap for the top. The tall have an unfair advantage (E2 5c-ish) and the short will struggle (E5 6b).
FA. Jonny Woodward 1977


it might be a little easier if tall for the top but getting into the standing position in the pockets cancels advantage out.
mark s - 20/Feb/02

If your 5.8ft like me this route is 6B for sure...
Marc - 21/Feb/02

Rocking over the initial overlap is probably a bit harder for the tall. If you're 6ft3 you should be able to reach the top. Sod Great Western, THIS is the 4-star route!!!
Dave - 21/Feb/02

A tremendous route on one of the most beautiful pieces of gritstone anywhere - has to be 3 stars!

Easy for E4 for anyone 5'10 or taller but probably worth it for the commitment required for the last moves.
Ian Patterson - 21/Feb/02

I can reach the top at just under 6ft, more like 5ft 11ins - big ape indexes rule! The crux is lower down for the tall me thinks.
Gary Gibson - 14/Mar/02

Shut up Ga, the hardest bit is getting off the deck!
Goi Ashmore - 15/Mar/02

Think that's what I said Goi!
Gary Gibson - 21/Mar/02

I am 6' 4" and had never lead an E grade before. A couple of top rope practices and I managed to complete my first lead in the E grades at E4 6B. Hmmm Makes you wonder if the climb is over graded or have my exceptional tallents blossomed amazingly on this wonderfull piece of grit. You decide!
Roland Schaack - 08/May/02

If you are 6'4" then the routes is about E1/2 to onsight. Top-roping it prior to leading brings it down to about HVS. Hope this makes sense.
daveP - 08/May/02

quite, basically if you top roped it afew times prior to leading it you would not generally see this as an E4 ascent...
pipper - 08/May/02

I'm 5'10 and flashed it. I definitely didn't find it 6b but thought it was probably worth low-end E4 just for the way as you crouch for the final dyno the top looks /so/ much further away!
Adrian Baugh - 08/May/02

a FANTASTIC route. everyone over 5'6" should be chopped off at the knees to experience it the way it should be....
stuart littlefair - 09/May/02

Does that me I am still un-able to claim an E grade lead.
Tall people win on some climbs and lose on others!
Roland Schaack - 10/May/02

You should have gone for the onsight like a real man, Roland. ;)
RobS - 17/Sep/02

I'm only 5'4, and thought the move to the top was 6b, I still found getting off the ground the hardest part though.
Dave Pritchard - 07/Mar/03

spare a thought for woodward who is short and had to smear up that top slab in EB,s, probably was 6c for him amd what the hell did he have in those pockets,lets face it, it is a brilliant route and the grade doesnt seem to matter,expect 6b if your a short arse and expect 5c/6a for the start if you are lanky
julian lines - 18/Sep/03

Great route! Great fun!! But the surely the gear is far too good for E4!?
Birkby - 25/Nov/03

Whats how good the gear is got to do with if its E4 or not? The E grade is for difficulty aswell as just danger
Adam Lincoln - 25/Nov/03

bear in mind at least one person has gone for the jump, kicked the friend out, missed the jump and decked.
Dave - 25/Nov/03

Hey Adam, I know this thanks!! If the gear was shit it might be E4. Otherwise top end E2 maybe!? You'd have to kick pretty hard to kick the gear out!!
Birkby - 27/Nov/03

The start not to bad but maybe 6b if your short i fell off twice trying to jump, had to put a high insucure smear on to get there, brilliant route though no point in top roping
Rob - 30/Dec/03

Why only 2 stars in the book? A typo?
Thomas Gilbert - 22/Nov/04

Bloody fantastic!
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

Look away now to avoid unwanted (ahem)'beta': a Hex 5 (or 4, or 6?) goes a long way to alleviating those 'kicking the friend out' worries.
john bull - 20/Jul/06

An oddity. Rather like a badly set climbing wall gimmick problem. I gave up on it. Was pleasant up until there.
Fiend - 08/Feb/07

A good warm up. Gets that blood flowing! Loved the top move - I smeared.
Jus - 19/Feb/07

Iam 5ft 6 and giving the top move 6b would be a crime(unless you try and smear it, Christ!!). its a jump, above great gear. A Soft Fun E4 6a Decribes this route well
Ian - 19/Mar/08

strange isn't it - way back in the day this must have been a proper 'out-there' route with hard, technical climbing. Now when you top out it makes you laugh more than anything. unique and really enjoyable, grading it seems almost irrelevant.
Evan Holdsworth - 10/May/10

Good fun! I found the crux getting stood up in the pocket, prior to the jump.
Dave Johnson - 06/Jul/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 165
    hard E5 0 of 67
    E5 0 of 67
    easy E5 1 of 67
    hard E4 1 of 67
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    hard E3 10 of 67
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    3 Stars 31 of 33
    2 Stars 1 of 33
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