2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Lead Free < Stealth  |  Grace and Danger > Darkness Falling >>

From the tip of the slab, make a hard friction move to start and then just go. Unprotected but a belayer on the left is sensible!
FA. John Gosling 1967


I thought the last vote sorted all this,it seemed opinion was settled at E2 5b if you don`t belay high on the left. E1 5c means nothing for this route which is 5b but unprotected!! surely this grade suggests well protected 5c climbing!
andy flint - 14/Dec/01

The fluttery heart symbol might be a clue.
Al.Smith - 20/Dec/01

I suspect a long reach is quite useful as well
Chris Moor - 14/Nov/02

Dangerously undergraded at E1, there is no easy escape once on the arete. diud strangler the same day and found this just as scary. E2 at least.
Tyler - 01/Nov/04

Indeed. If Wall end slab direct gets E3 then this should be at least E2!?@
Gritlover - 31/Dec/04

Don`t see whats wrong with the grade... It suggests a low down hard 5c move with easier unprotected 5a climbing once in a dangerous situation..., which (funnily enough) is exactly what it is!
Salamanda - 24/Apr/05

i agree completly with the last comments. no way anything more than e1. 5c is the first moves (safe) then the rest of the route is e1 5a, which shows a dangeous position. just needs explaining in the desciption. thought 2 stars, great buzz without being too hard
jamesturnbull - 28/Jul/05

I don't agree at all. the first moves aren't 5c, and there's a 5b move high up, which is rather scary, a bit like an e2 5b. Much harder and scarier than Argus (which I think is e1).
Jon Stewart - 14/May/08

This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a path. But most E1 leaders would find this v scary, and the upper section can certainly feel 5b when conditions are less than perfect. The grades are partly designed to limit the times someone pushes their grade and ends up hurting themselves, so E2 seems sensible.
profonrock - 19/Jun/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
    hard E3 0 of 24
    E3 0 of 24
    easy E3 0 of 24
    hard E2 0 of 24
    E2 2 of 24
    easy E2 14 of 24
    hard E1 5 of 24
    E1 1 of 24
    easy E1 0 of 24
    hard HVS 2 of 24
    HVS 0 of 24
    easy HVS 0 of 24
    hard 5c 0 of 5
    5c 0 of 5
    easy 5c 0 of 5
    hard 5b 1 of 5
    5b 4 of 5
    easy 5b 0 of 5
    hard 5a 0 of 5
    5a 0 of 5
    easy 5a 0 of 5
    3 Stars 0 of 18
    2 Stars 18 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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