Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 56
18m. Reach the ascending traverse from the left (awkward) using the scruffy crack as little as possible. Originally the pocketed slab just right was the start, but this is a polished 5b now. Follow the break out to the right arete and a nicely exposed finish. The direct start up the right-hand arete is Slips, E3 6a.
How can it be 3 stars when it starts up that skanky crack. Top arete is nice, but the line isn't.
it doesn't start up a "skanky crack" but to the right which no longer feels like 4a because of the abuse it has received over the years - but still worth 3 stars
The start on the slab is hard for 4a. The line is logical in that it takes the easiest line.
The slab start is way harder; I've seen an E1 leader beaten by it. The rest of it is more like VDiff.
What a lovely climb, a real feeling of being on a big face. The original pocketed start is hard 5b?
I thought the 'skanky crack' was quite pleasant. Can't see the point in the slab start these days as it's far harder than the rest of the route. The slab was very sandy and the whole route was short on protection. Nice though.
The original pocketed start would seem out of keeping with the rest of the route. A start from the crack to the left gives a much more even grade. There is plenty of gear, with out needing to much imagination to spot it. The route whilst big for grit, and ending in a fine position left me more than a little disapointed. Possibly the worst'3*' route I have climbed.
Worth the stars for the position out on the arete. THe original start is now much too difficult to fit comfortably with the rest of the route (5b?). Cost me a sprained ankle & a hobble/hitch back to Leek last time.