Central Climb Top 50

3 Stars
Graunchy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Climb Direct < B4, XS  |  Encouragement > K2 >>


An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. The route is relatively easy for VS but oddly it is hard work all the way!<br/>1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner.<br/>2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (okay, it may be 5a) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left.<br/>3) 3c, 10m. The groove above the ledge to a rightwards exit (direct is harder), or the one out to the right (4b).
FA. John Laycock 1909

USER COMMENTS

One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone.
RobS - 19/Jul/02

It was down as a VD in my old Paul Nunn guidebook. I tried it to recover my nerve after leading Technical Slab, my first S, without knowing that there was no pro... Great fun!
steve gandy - 26/May/05

Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics.
Moomin Lord - 27/May/05

HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern.
Steve C - 04/Jun/05

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 96
    hard HVS 0 of 26
    HVS 0 of 26
    easy HVS 0 of 26
    hard VS 2 of 26
    VS 14 of 26
    easy VS 3 of 26
    hard HS 7 of 26
    HS 0 of 26
    easy HS 0 of 26
    hard 5a 0 of 26
    5a 0 of 26
    easy 5a 0 of 26
    hard 4c 0 of 26
    4c 0 of 26
    easy 4c 0 of 26
    hard 4b 0 of 26
    4b 0 of 26
    easy 4b 0 of 26
    hard 4a 0 of 26
    4a 0 of 26
    easy 4a 0 of 26
    hard 3c 0 of 26
    3c 0 of 26
    easy 3c 0 of 26
    hard 3b 0 of 26
    3b 0 of 26
    easy 3b 0 of 26
    hard 3a 0 of 26
    3a 0 of 26
    easy 3a 0 of 26
    hard 2c 0 of 26
    2c 0 of 26
    easy 2c 0 of 26
    hard 2b 0 of 26
    2b 0 of 26
    easy 2b 0 of 26
    hard 2a 0 of 26
    2a 0 of 26
    easy 2a 0 of 26
    hard ?? 2 of 26
    ?? 14 of 26
    easy ?? 0 of 26
    hard ?? 10 of 26
    ?? 0 of 26
    easy ?? 0 of 26
    3 Stars 31 of 44
    2 Stars 9 of 44
    1 Star 4 of 44
    0 Stars 0 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

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