Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
20m. The upper half of the face to the right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to the right should reduce the danger on the nasty sequence to gain the front face. From a good flake (runners) make one hard move using a mono and you're almost there - just go! Using the arete start of Chiaroscuro (from the gully) ups the grade to E6.
Blind moves from the gully onto the face feel serious. Hard reachy crux move off mono above good runners, not scary to finish but doesn't let you go early.
Protection for initial very bold traverse(superb moves but not very hard)arranged at head height when standing in the gully before traversing out and second belayer down and right to prevent the swing into the gully. Then quite well protected and sustained with a hard(definitely 6b) move with gear at foot level.