Pinball Wizard

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Crack and Slab < Short Crack  |  Blind Faith > Eight Metre Corner >>

Follow the finger-crack then the middle of the wall above (slightly bold) on small finger holds, trending leftwards. Said by some to be easier than the walk-in!
FA. Steve Bancroft 1972


This route is massively overgraded. More like HVS 5b.
Tom - 14/Jul/02

Seem to remember going slightly left at the top and finding it very easy (bottom end E1)
adamvl - 20/Sep/02

yeah, well overgraded unless you try the direct finish which is more like 6b (i did it on a rope, once). try "good value E1 5b" but do go slightly left at the top.
martin - 23/Oct/02

Overgraded? HVS? E1? you must be joking! a) the moves to get into and out of the crack are a bit butch so 5b may be but quite high, b) <beta alert> from the ground and onsight (which is what grading's all about) you can't see the goodish friend pocket up and left above the main break, and should you miss it, you deck out if you fluff the moves on the slab. I thought E1 5b (in Western Grit) was definitely undergraded.
Arnaud Garcon - 27/Jun/03

A classic intro to gritstone lower E-numbers. Traversed right from pocket into centre of slab and straight up on small but positive breaks, excellent stuff, would grade it E2 5b. Good varied route.
Phil Davies - 10/Feb/05

Humph...I couldn't get further than the end of the finger crack. I guess I must have been doing it wrong.
Roberto - 10/Feb/05

My first E2 and I'd only done one E1! Wasn't expecting to climb my first E2 that day (in fact wasn't planning on another E1 I've only led 6 VS's) but saw how easy and safe it was (saw someone else put the cam in and borrowed it as have no gear of my own) and couldn't resist.The crack is full of massive sidepulls so didn't even have to jam, then it's easy to the cam and a giveaway runout on really safe incut crimps to the top.Super easy but the run-out headwall requires calm to keep it easy as pumped fore-arms would be vulnerable on the last two moves.Get a size 2 CAM and bag your first E2! However, the walk-in isn't quite as easy!!!
Bunt - 16/May/05

Great little climb, whatever the grade.
Mick B - 02/Sep/05

I definately think it's a one move wonder with a E1 5b grade. I had just done Freddie's before and it felt a little bit harder.
No-ozone - 09/Jan/06

I agree with Mick B. Very neat climbing with some nice discoveries en-route. Probably hard E1 5b. Great rock.
Fiend - 16/Oct/06

My 4th ever outdoor lead. I'd read the conversion table and since I could climb 6c indoors this should be easy right?

How was I to know that those horizontal pockets wouldn't accept nuts - I was too poor and inexperienced for cams.

The last few meters are lost to me. I remember my friend Jenny helpfully suggesting that I should place some gear - I'd hit the ground if I fell she said. Next thing I know I'm pulling over the top spitting and gasping, don't know how.

Maybe it is E1 or even HVS. E2 makes a far better story for my first E lead though!
Compo - 09/Jul/10

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 80
    hard E2 0 of 27
    E2 6 of 27
    easy E2 9 of 27
    hard E1 12 of 27
    E1 0 of 27
    easy E1 0 of 27
    hard HVS 0 of 27
    HVS 0 of 27
    easy HVS 0 of 27
    hard 5c 0 of 27
    5c 6 of 27
    easy 5c 13 of 27
    hard 5b 8 of 27
    5b 0 of 27
    easy 5b 0 of 27
    hard 5a 0 of 27
    5a 0 of 27
    easy 5a 0 of 27
    3 Stars 2 of 26
    2 Stars 19 of 26
    1 Star 4 of 26
    0 Stars 1 of 26
    Bag of ..... 0 of 26

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