2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Marsh Dweller's Rib < The Ponger  |  Ping Pong > Desmond Douglas >>

A fine crack climb which provides one of the (few) real gems of the Upper Circle, pumpy and quite awkward to protect. It starts on the lower left toe of the buttress and follows the prominent crack on the right to a lower-off. Good value.
FFA. Keith Myhill 1970. Together with Ping Pong, this ascent marked the change from aid climbing to free climbing in the 1970s.,FA. Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959


I used to think that this was a soft touch E1 but having recently revisited I found it fair E1 and 5b - perhaps I'm getting old!
roger whetton - 03/Aug/02

HVS 5a is spot on. Nice steady route although not quite as nice as PingPong.
Fiend - 22/Aug/03

Bit thin for HVS and 5a - I say it's E1 5b albeit the lower end of the grade.
Tog - 11/Jul/04

first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it at all so phsycologically it was nearly a solo. ran it out from the start of the hanging crack to the last 4m headwall
Cragdog al - 21/May/06

Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit iffy, felt it was more like the old guide book grade of E1 5b. The bat 1/8/06
Mike Kelly - 02/Aug/06

I reckon it's closer to the old guide book grade than HVS 5a
C.E. Moreton - 14/Aug/09

Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but I thought this was soft for HVS, good gear throughout. But the grade is irrelevant, it's a fine line on clean, solid rock in a great setting.
chris_moor - 12/Apr/10

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