Pegasus Rib

1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pegasus Wall < Back to School  |  265 > Old Enough to Know Better >>

The right-hand arete of the buttress is bold and high in the grade. Climb the thin crack to the arete then balance round left and finish direct. The big black flake right of the arete and close to the crux is hollow and not a great spot to place runners.
FA. John Allen early 1970s


This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.
Stefan Kruger - 17/Jan/02

Agree with the upgrade...nice climbing though.
There is a poor cam on the left on the upper section but I doubt it would hold. The finish can be protected but is a lot easier.
Steve C - 19/Jun/02

Would be pretty easy even as E0, the gear below the crux is bomber and such that there is a crux it's pretty steady. Nice climbing though, a bit fiddly to get onto the arete.
Fiend - 05/Dec/03

I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade?
Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
MeMeMe - 19/Jun/05

I also put a bomber hex behind the flake at half height, gave the flake a knock with a krab and it sounded worryingly hollow, i protected the top out with two small friends in the flared horizontal break to the left of the rib, not sure if they would of held a fall but the top out was ok if on the rib as there was a ridge to hold as you pulled over, my 1st E1.
Ady Short - 25/Jun/05

it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it.

you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
leon - 17/Sep/05

Steady climbing above poor gear. It's easy if you keep your cool. None of the moves are individually hard, just slightly insecure above a big run-out. My first E1 lead!
Julie Mair - 03/Jun/07

I enjoyed this route a lot. Good gear in the mid-height break, from there a tricky move round onto the front face is followed by interesting climbing without gear until very near the top. I climbed this route thinking it was HVS 5a and thought it fair for the grade.
lowersharpnose - 10/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
    hard E1 0 of 25
    E1 5 of 25
    easy E1 8 of 25
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    easy 5a 8 of 25
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