2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
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Delicate and a bit bold but not E1. Climb the crack to a ledge then move left and balance up the ramp (tiny wires and cams out left). Finish up the chimney behind the huge perched block.
FA. Joe Brown 1950


The small wires are very poor so dont forget the good hidden break just left of the start of the crux sequence (HVS with, E1 without it)
Steve C - 19/Jun/02

It's basically quite easy, and not at all strenuous. You can protect the crux by leaning (slightly) left and popping a couple of friends in a slot before moving up the blind flaky thing to the top.
Damian Haigh - 26/Jun/02

Could be a candidate for E0. A climb of two distinct halves. The initial crack is the strenuous bit and the top is essentially a slab. Not sure if it's even a 5a slab really but it is run out. The "small wires" in the ramp are rubbish but don't miss the hidden cam placements to the left of the ledge - these are not great but OK'ish if you are careful. HVS or E1 dependent on your attitude to run out slabs.
JonC - 07/Apr/03

The 'hidden' cam placements aren't really hidden and are bomb proof.
Simon C - 29/Jun/03

"balance up the delicate ramp line (small wires)"

Small wires my foot! There's nothing!

Nice route though.
Alex Purser - 11/Aug/03

The ramp is unprotected but incredibly easy once you commit (my second did fall off but i think he was on drugs). a good climb but a bit of a doss at e1 i thought.
Leon Skeldon - 22/Oct/03

This was my first E1 (but im not convinced as it felt too easy) The initial crack in my opinion is the tricky part but takes good jams. The slab itself with carefull balance shouldn't be a problem for anyone, certainly those who feel ready for E1.
Martin Rowe - 27/May/04

I soloed this, but the gear looked reasonable to me. The cam placements look worn but ok and there are definitely a couple of small wires to be had too. Easy for E1 (and 5a) but a great route all the same. Just keep cool and commit.
DaveF - 14/Jun/04

Good route, but never E1 in a million years - only a tad harder than say High Neb Buttress. #1 Cam placement to left of ledge is fine and at most only marginally flared. This makes upper section adequately protected. There used to be a good small wire/RP in the groove, but this placement has vastly deteriorated.
Tony M - 29/Jul/04

My first E1 too, and with hindsight I reckon it was a good one to break into the grade, cos it's easy. If you have good footwork you will trot up the slab and not worry at all about lack of gear. I think I put a microwire in somewhere for psychological protection, probably wouldn't have held but the moves are easy. Not quite sure how it gets E1 actually - there are loads of other E1s much harder than this!
Alun - 23/Nov/04

Soloed it thinking E1 5a, not much gear anyway. If I'd known there was good gear before the scoop I probably would have roped up. If the gear is really ok, i reckon hvs is more like it, though i'm not sure where the 5a move was. Great route though.
bomb - 17/Apr/05

I got 4 pieces in from the ledge below the groove (to the left under an overlap). Two tech friend numbers 1s were the main ones. The placements aren't 100 percent but hopefully they add up. Didn't bother after that.
Swig - 18/Apr/05

More like HVS than E1. The crux moves are all footwork and not that hard for 5a.
Danos - 24/Oct/05

It is E1 due to the fact if you fail on the slab and fall, the potential drop is big. But really you shouldnt really fail on this one as a 5a is is ok. But a good one to start E1 on.
Phil Munt - 17/Nov/05

A nice crack to start, I didn't bother with the not so hidden cam placements above the main break but don't fluff up the top! Good feet.
Paul Winder - 12/Dec/05

Lovely little route. It's never an e1 if the 'not so hidden cam' holds (no.1 friend fits perfect if a bit shallow)
Gannas - 15/Mar/06

Found the initial crack at tad tricky for my technique and the step up to gain the top crack/ramp tricky for my head.
Enjoyable and friendly at the grade.
shaun walby - 07/May/06

This should be HVS 4c at most and would be low in that grade. Anyone thinking it's E1 is in for a shock when they get on a real one!
Andy Hobson - 18/Jun/06

in addition to the cam placements at the start of the ramp theres an excellent green alien (friend 0 may fit even better) halfway up the ramp. Great route but never E1.
Chris - 07/Sep/06

HVS 5a - 5a for the starting crack and 4c for the ramp. The gear is pretty good - a couple of friends out left and a little nut about waist height before stepping up. They gear is barely below knee height when you do the 'crux' move so its never e1.
msjhes2 - 08/Jul/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 212
    hard E1 0 of 22
    E1 0 of 22
    easy E1 6 of 22
    hard HVS 1 of 22
    HVS 14 of 22
    easy HVS 1 of 22
    hard VS 0 of 22
    VS 0 of 22
    easy VS 0 of 22
    hard 5b 0 of 98
    5b 0 of 98
    easy 5b 1 of 98
    hard 5a 1 of 98
    5a 67 of 98
    easy 5a 21 of 98
    hard 4c 8 of 98
    4c 0 of 98
    easy 4c 0 of 98
    3 Stars 12 of 92
    2 Stars 75 of 92
    1 Star 4 of 92
    0 Stars 1 of 92
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