1 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Rock Bottom < Pencil Slim  |  Traverse and Crack > Jacob's Bladder >>

The precarious wall right again to a tricky sloping exit.
FA. Jonny Woodward 1980


A great little route. I found the crux very committing and a precarious balancing act. The upper break feels more positive to the left although this is further away and more committing to get established on. If you have the reach then this crux move up the wall will probably feel like an easier 5b. It should be possible to get a good Friend 4 stuffed in the break before going up the wall, harder for the short, or you could try shuffling up the wall a little way first and getting a good fist jam established before placing the gear. A hard pull up the wall completes the crux then follow that up with a rockover to your right to then latch the top.

Short but sweet and worthy of a star. The gear is solid and the rock is a coarse sharp grit with little or no sign of wear and tear, just beware the breaks can be dirty and slippery.
Bonobo - 08/Aug/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 1 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 1 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 1 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.