Dover's Wall, Route 1

1 Stars
 S 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Dover's Wall, Route 2 < Dover's Wall Route 1.5  |  Dover's Wall, Route 4 > Wing Buttress Gully >>

The thin crack (second from the right) leads past a useful horn.
FA. Harry Dover early 1930s


This route is given Severe in the new BMC Stanage guide, and in my opinion it deserves that grade. There's good gear all over it, and the hardest move is definitely no harder than easy 4b. Good line though and an enjoyable climb.
James McN - 01/Nov/03

A good route. Fair but maybe quite easy in the grade at HS 4b.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

I personally think that coming through the overhang must be 4b and must be worth HS. It is well protected also but I don't see that lowering the adjectival grade in this case.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

This used to be HVD, what has changed? The top overhang just requires a bit of udging, not too bad at all!
Marrow of wrath - 13/Apr/04

Great route-great line. Just begging to be climbed as you walk past it. Good pro
mat_galvin - 17/Apr/05

This one's been downgraded to Severe in the new guide - correctly so IMHO, as it makes a wonderful climb at the grade. I almost ended up running up it, I was enjoying the laybacks that much!
Pythonist - 02/Sep/06

Good consistent quality throughout. A very good route.
Mutl3y - 15/Sep/07

cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pythonist?
jason turner - 28/Jul/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 66
    hard HS 0 of 9
    HS 0 of 9
    easy HS 3 of 9
    hard S 2 of 9
    S 4 of 9
    easy S 0 of 9
    hard HVD 0 of 9
    HVD 0 of 9
    easy HVD 0 of 9
    hard 4c 0 of 29
    4c 0 of 29
    easy 4c 0 of 29
    hard 4b 1 of 29
    4b 10 of 29
    easy 4b 11 of 29
    hard 4a 7 of 29
    4a 0 of 29
    easy 4a 0 of 29
    3 Stars 0 of 28
    2 Stars 18 of 28
    1 Star 10 of 28
    0 Stars 0 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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