3 Stars
 E3 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Eliminate < Ann  |  Rambling Route > Bird Chimney >>

Steady climbing with a bold feel. Gear in the midway break gives protection that is just about adequate. Climb the reachy lower wall via a thin crack to ledges then attack the upper face by a line of (small) chipped holds. The route is substantially harder for the short.
FA. Hank Pasquill 1967


Only E2 with RPs & Peenuts - I got 6 bits of gear in the upper breaks, and a couple of those were even good! Yes it's chipped but still a classic, lower and upper sections offer great climbing.
Fiend - 19/Sep/02

Traditionally E2 using double ropes with 'baby bouncy' protection before you leave the middle break. Easier to lead than second. Adrenaline needed for long reaches at the top.
John B - 01/Nov/02

Definitely E3, especially when it starts pissing it down on the last moves!
JR - 29/Apr/03

Gear at halfway is bombproof but shouldn`t be required by an average 5b climber, as long as he keeps his cool that is!
Richie Guest - 06/Oct/03

So you're encouraging the average 5b climber (i.e. E1 leader) to ignore the fiddly gear and press on with committing 5b moves in a deckout zone?? Nice.
Fiend - 06/Oct/03

Richie, do you think the average 5b climber would need the gear if he hadn't previously top-roped the route? ;-)
Simon Caldwell - 06/Oct/03

An easy E3 5b, guide book reckons E4 5c for shorties like myself but that must be using bare bones protection.Brute force has no place here it's all balance!Anyway all this is irrelevant....You've just got to relax like you've never relaxed before!!!
Safe Climbing! Ciao!
Jack - 09/Oct/03

Lets start a forum here then Sim C and Fiend. Its not deck-out by a long way and yes i am encouraging people to do that, and when they use that encouragement and on-sight it, they`ll thank me for it, tit!
Richie Guest - 09/Oct/03

Fact: If you do not place protection (fiddly but can be good) in the upper breaks of Cheat, you will hit the ground if you fall off the final tricky moves. This is a simple matter of where the earlier protection is in relation to how far the climber is above it, all the arguing in the world will not change that fact.
Fiend - 10/Oct/03

Fact : The gear i placed at halfway would prevent a leader falling from the top (not that hard actually) move, hitting the ground.
Fact : A climber who is competent at performing 5b moves has a very slim chance of falling off this climb and hence `testing` or `requiring` the gear.
I`m not suggesting you dont place any, that would be totally foolish unless you `wanted` to solo it.
Richie Guest - 10/Oct/03

An excellent route. E3 feels about right, even though the crux is low down.
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

pretty standard for E3 5b. how hard you think will depend how many times you cheat by top roping it first. grades are for on sights.
A Hughes - 12/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 69
    hard E4 0 of 24
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