Off With His Head

3 Stars
 E4 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tarzan Boy < Headless Chicken  |  Guillotine Direct > The Guillotine >>

Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang, then trend left past a well-marked runner slot to hard moves over the nose. Another hard move using a pocket, leads through the final roof to an easy finish.
FA. Andy Barker 1982. Originally started via Tarzan Boy.


HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard!
ged - 13/Apr/04

Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground.
Simon Cox - 04/May/04

Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose?
John Gillott - 05/May/04

A desrerate pull to the last break under the last roof. Felt more like 6b to me. I don't think the arete is of any use. I liked the loose block in the lip, glad it didn't fall out!!
jutting - 08/Jun/05

Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected.
Urs Odermatt - 02/Jun/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 7
    hard E5 0 of 4
    E5 0 of 4
    easy E5 0 of 4
    hard E4 1 of 4
    E4 3 of 4
    easy E4 0 of 4
    hard E3 0 of 4
    E3 0 of 4
    easy E3 0 of 4
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    3 Stars 3 of 3
    2 Stars 0 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.