Gavel Neese

1 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Desolation Angel < Hell Gate  |  Lucifer > Hell Gate Crack >>

The blunt arete has a height-dependent start (at least 6a for shorties) and no runners before the break (which takes a very big cam). The short upper arete is much easier, plus it has runners and great positions.
FA. Reg Addey early 1960s


A lovely solo (for the tall anyway).
Michael Birkby - 04/Sep/03

Aye, a bit of a slap for the break if you're 5ft!
Jus - 16/Jun/04

at 5ft 7 had to use a crimp out on the right wall and a nice smear to over come the reach .banna wall felt easier!
nick w - 28/Feb/05

I think they need to say how far after the crux the runners are! I assumed they would be plentiful, as for the upper arete it's only 2 moves.
Iggy_B - 24/May/05

I couldn't find any gear in the break after the long reach and had to jump off. I was ok though thanks to a belayer catching me and hitting a lucky landing spot with my feet.
neil furniss - 03/Nov/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard E3 0 of 6
    E3 0 of 6
    easy E3 1 of 6
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    hard 5b 0 of 6
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    hard 5a 0 of 6
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