The Nose

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Intermediate Buttress < Jaygo's Pipe  |  Second Wind > Swings >>

Hand-traverse out right along the low break to the arete. Pumpy.
FA. Joe Brown 1954


This route scared the ...everything out of me. Mildy-exposed is a joke. Place all the gear you can in the low break at the traverse. There isn't anything you'd hang your coat off until near the top! Or maybe I was just being stupid...
RobS - 09/Sep/02

I found more gear than Rob, but hanging around to place it made the route far more strenuous. Definitely 4c moves, should have a 'pumpy' symbol.
Simon C - 21/Jul/03

I'm with you guys on this one. Very 'out there' for the grade. Issues with the gear higher up. Head game tastic!
mat_galvin - 17/Apr/05

did this today.....I agree twas 'ard for VS and definitely 1 boldish 4c move to get to decent break. Can get a good horizontal jam in here though - less pumpy, and placed a good 2.5 friend. Yeah gear after this wasn't grand but climbing was easier if a bit slopey.

also did hell crack which was savage too! can go along with both routes been VS but why tech. grades of 4b? Harshest VS's I've found for a while
steve ramsden - 22/Apr/05

actually, just remembered, the gear is actually good - after the bomber 2.5 friend there's a really good thread in one of the higher breaks too.
steve ramsden - 22/Apr/05

yeah, did this this morning and got lots of decent friends in, about an arms length from the arete on the left generally. pretty strenuous all the same to get them in whilst holding onto the slopers. made to look easy by seconder but a difficult vs 4c lead i thought.
dannyc - 14/May/05

thought id do it as a warm down at the end of the day been 4b...ahhahah not really a warm down route. Excellent grit VS, short action packed right to the top. first few cams were poor but the holds are very good as long as your strong.
4b if your strong.
shaun walby - 23/Apr/06

A pumpy symbol is right, but I thought the gear was good
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

Ooooff. Only just kept my head on this one. Added to my list of VSs to remember (Fern, Altar, File). Either get good gear hanging off pebbley slopers (though I think I stayed a little too left) or go for it. Never too tough but certainly "out there".
DuzWalker - 27/Sep/07

There are plenty of decent cam placements, but pumpy to hang around for too long.
mark20 - 28/Jun/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

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