2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Kaibab < Sunbeam  |  Age of Reason > Sheppy >>

The original route of the wall. Climb up the flake and crack on the right-hand side of the pedestal to its top. Move left then climb the roof on big holds to the tricky final groove of Sunbeam. A more direct finish is 5a.
FA. Arthur Hassall (1pt aid) 1967


Very good climbing for the most part - the top groove is surprisingly tricky. Misses out on classic status due to the 45' gravel slope above the finish (not a good solo I might add...).
Fiend - 19/Sep/02

Good route but a horrible finish up mud.
Steve Q - 23/Sep/02

Echoing the first two comments, good route BUT the finish .... well unfortunately that's the bit you remember most
Alan - 11/Jan/03

Excellent route but high in the grade; the start is pushy and the peg protection in the middle "stacked blocks" section a bit worrying. Couldn't work out whether to finish up the bold and somewhat dirty groove on the right (looked technicaly OK) or the well-protected fingertip layaway to the left. After a couple of lobs would suggest that the latter is solid 5a at least.
Jamie B - 03/May/03

Route was cleaned in may2003, including top landing. Now an excellent 2/3 star route. Most people seem to finish up left hand crack, well protected 4c.
Mike Hall - 02/Jul/03

Really dirty and loose at the top now! Last post says cleaned in May 03 - just shows how much changes in two years in these parts...
Pekkie - 08/Jul/05

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 37
    hard HVS 0 of 13
    HVS 0 of 13
    easy HVS 0 of 13
    hard VS 5 of 13
    VS 8 of 13
    easy VS 0 of 13
    hard HS 0 of 13
    HS 0 of 13
    easy HS 0 of 13
    hard 5a 0 of 13
    5a 0 of 13
    easy 5a 6 of 13
    hard 4c 3 of 13
    4c 4 of 13
    easy 4c 0 of 13
    hard 4b 0 of 13
    4b 0 of 13
    easy 4b 0 of 13
    3 Stars 2 of 11
    2 Stars 7 of 11
    1 Star 1 of 11
    0 Stars 1 of 11
    Bag of ..... 0 of 11

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