Hell Crack

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Step-ladder Crack Direct < Dark Water  |  Still in Limbo > Heaven Crack >>

The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and, although well protected, it will seek out any weakness in your jamming technique.


Surmount initial overhang by reaching across to left crack for jam. This allows you to reach higher holds with right hand. Great fun.
John Yates - 25/Sep/02

A brutish start then continues to get even better. You can protect the moves before you make them so just enjoy.
David Rainsbury - 09/Sep/03

Tip - if you're going to hang around on the overhanging crux whilst placing gear, do it fast! Had to retreat to pre-overhang ledge to de-pump before trying again. An absolute quality route and a real VS. Feel those stars............
James McN - 19/Oct/03

climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work.
james turnbull - 25/Mar/04

A good route that to me felt hard in the grade and pumpy. I followed the line in from the right as per definitive guide, unlike the rockfax route which has been straightened
Woker - 23/Aug/04

As the description suggests, a lack of jamming ability can make this feel quite pumpy. If you can jam, it is quite reasonable at the grade.
Graham - 24/Aug/04

Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/04

I can jam and did jam, but am quite big so found it quite pumpy. In fact Graham the desrrption says it's taxing I am merely in agreement with this, I think the jamming comment refers to being able to climb it confidentally and succussfully on lead in the first place.

As for the lines Simon, before you go sparfing off why not check them in the respective books as mentioned. Quite clearly the rockfax only shows it using the left hand crack whilst the definitive shows the line starting on the right hand crack and crossing to the left hand crack over the roof, this is roughly the line I took and at one point I had a jam in each crack under the roof, still my right hand one came out last.
Woker - 24/Aug/04

I personally think that comments relavent to line or grade should only be given by those who have actually lead climbed the route....... hey Simon.
Woker - 26/Aug/04

Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'.
Simon Caldwell - 27/Aug/04

Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said).
The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux.
Shaun Walby - 10/Oct/04

I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times
Big Steve - 10/Jul/05

My favourite solo on the crag. Comfy jams but a tussle nevertheless. Brilliant
Scouse D - 18/Jul/05

I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though.
Si dH - 22/Sep/05

Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again...
Mutl3y - 24/Apr/06

nice and easy problem
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 138
    hard HVS 0 of 45
    HVS 0 of 45
    easy HVS 0 of 45
    hard VS 2 of 45
    VS 38 of 45
    easy VS 4 of 45
    hard HS 1 of 45
    HS 0 of 45
    easy HS 0 of 45
    hard 5a 0 of 48
    5a 0 of 48
    easy 5a 0 of 48
    hard 4c 0 of 48
    4c 0 of 48
    easy 4c 0 of 48
    hard 4b 0 of 48
    4b 0 of 48
    easy 4b 0 of 48
    hard 4a 0 of 48
    4a 0 of 48
    easy 4a 0 of 48
    hard 3c 0 of 48
    3c 0 of 48
    easy 3c 0 of 48
    hard 3b 0 of 48
    3b 0 of 48
    easy 3b 0 of 48
    hard 3a 0 of 48
    3a 0 of 48
    easy 3a 0 of 48
    hard 2c 0 of 48
    2c 0 of 48
    easy 2c 0 of 48
    hard 2b 0 of 48
    2b 0 of 48
    easy 2b 0 of 48
    hard 2a 0 of 48
    2a 0 of 48
    easy 2a 0 of 48
    hard ?? 0 of 48
    ?? 0 of 48
    easy ?? 20 of 48
    hard ?? 22 of 48
    ?? 6 of 48
    easy ?? 0 of 48
    3 Stars 26 of 45
    2 Stars 17 of 45
    1 Star 1 of 45
    0 Stars 0 of 45
    Bag of ..... 1 of 45

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.