Twin Chimneys Buttress

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Crack and Cave < Bill and Ted's Lobotomy  |  Lucy's Delight > Lucy's Joy >>

The blunt arete has a bit of a bold start. Slippery moves gain the arete, then a detached block. Another tricky move gains the upper section which soon eases.
FA. Lewis Coxon 1922


slippery is understating it a tad ! good route gear is great after first bold polished part
lithos - 18/Jul/02

The pollish isn't bad at all. One of the best VSs on Stanage.
Dave - 18/Jul/02

Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow.
Jon Greengrass - 20/Mar/03

This route is HVS 5b in the Stanage guide, quite a difference?
Al - 22/Sep/03

Good route, good grade, and not that bold after the first move. There is gear before the detached block.
MarkW - 14/Oct/03

A really nice route with a half-decent bouldery start
Nick Shuttleworth - 11/Nov/04

HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block?
I did find it very bold though, I wasnt keen on the cams in the slot below the block and so felt like I didnt really have anything until I got tot he block (7-8m?). Dont see a problem in whacking a big nut behind the block as I did, it aint moving.
Si dH - 11/Apr/05

The block is about 4m up and sounded quite loose, small cam placement directly above it.
Iain - 30/Apr/06

Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory).

Anyway, great route, didn't really notice any polish at the bottom.
Byron Buck - 17/Feb/07

I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it.
Sean Orchard - 18/Aug/07

Gear beta alert!!! Without a friend half this climb is badly protected until after the crux (10m up). The section below the block is badly protected as the block is loose, don't put cams behind it, they will loosen it, a nut is as good (bad!) and wont pull the block off.
Matt1000 - 01/Nov/07

Very good E3 5c up the face left of the arete of Twin Chimneys Buttress - Bill & Ted's lobotomy - Stanage guide.
Andy - 19/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 87
    hard HVS 0 of 29
    HVS 0 of 29
    easy HVS 0 of 29
    hard VS 11 of 29
    VS 17 of 29
    easy VS 1 of 29
    hard HS 0 of 29
    HS 0 of 29
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    hard 5a 0 of 28
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    hard 4c 0 of 28
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    hard 4b 0 of 28
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    hard 3a 0 of 28
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    hard 2c 0 of 28
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    hard 2a 0 of 28
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    easy 2a 0 of 28
    hard ?? 0 of 28
    ?? 0 of 28
    easy ?? 1 of 28
    hard ?? 7 of 28
    ?? 20 of 28
    easy ?? 0 of 28
    3 Stars 13 of 30
    2 Stars 17 of 30
    1 Star 0 of 30
    0 Stars 0 of 30
    Bag of ..... 0 of 30

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