Cold Turkey

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct < Thunder Road  |  Straight Crack > Robin Hood Zig-zag >>

Climb the flake in the left rib of Straight Crack, step left and climb the fine face direct. Rounded and with less gear than you might like. An alternative to Christmas Crack on 25th December?
FA. John Allen, Christmas Day 1973


Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful
chris_moor - 15/Aug/02

Something bigger than a friend 3 makes this a lot less scary!
Slab Happy - 19/Apr/03

If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable.
jon stew - 29/May/03

Tell me about rather escapable; I escaped onto Straight Crack. I would not recommend you attempt Cold Turkey, unless you've done a lot of Gritstone slab work. Rounded breaks and slopey holds prevail. Will hopefully climb this route successfully in the near future, when it's not my first lead of the day.....
James McN - 21/Jun/03

Did something similar, I escaped left into RHRHB Direct, no big friend = big fall! I agree about the slopeyness, at the grade, not one for a hot day...
Nick - 13/Sep/03

I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down.
Jon Greengrass - 08/Oct/03

Slopey and serious. Lurking within the grade is that it's HVS 4c for a long way in the middle...
Fiend - 26/Oct/03

Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up.
Shaun Walby - 10/Oct/04

I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey
Tyler - 18/Oct/04

I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :)
Si - 24/Jul/05

I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive!
Neil Adams - 01/Aug/05

cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo!
Paul Phillips - 26/Jun/06

Good route. The crux is protected but it's rather run out above that - there's breaks but absolutely no point putting anything in them. Probably quite tough for the short too.
Danos - 10/Oct/06

Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top.
Tim Waterhouse - 02/May/07

A really nice route, well woth the stars. The large flare can be poorly protected with a decent size chock if you're willing to mess about with it and a tri-cam was useful in the one shot-hole at about half height. Easy climbing if you're happy with grit, just a head battle.
David Berry - 18/Feb/08

I climbed this a couple of years ago and was freaked about the poor gear in the mid section and bailed out. I've done other gristone HVS slabs since and I was expecting to have another hard time for my seconds attempt. As it turned out I just flashed up the mid section and thoroughly enjoyed the exposure. The gear is poor and I am short but had no trouble with the reaches [use your feet]. A great one to practice your boldness.
albie niedojadlo - 15/Jun/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 104
    hard E1 0 of 35
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    easy E1 7 of 35
    hard HVS 11 of 35
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    hard ?? 7 of 35
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    3 Stars 3 of 34
    2 Stars 27 of 34
    1 Star 4 of 34
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