Sole Incantatore Top 50

3 Stars

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A brilliant route to the summit. The climbing is sustained although the major difficulties can be easily aided. 1) 5+. A short pitch up the crack system to a belay on blocks. 2) 6b+. The wall above leads to a steep section just to the left of a rock scar. Careful climbing allows the shattered rock to be avoided. Continue via some thin diagonal cracks and walls. 3) 6b. Climb steeply above the stance via a thin crack and head on up the fine wall. 4) 6b+. The smooth wall is followed leftwards with a bit of wandering around to find the best holds. A tricky pitch. 5) 6c. Above is a distinctly awkward-looking bulge. This is best negotiated with steely fingers (or a quick pull on the bolt.) Continue up the smooth and still-difficult rib. 6) 3+. A quick couple of easy steps and the summit is gained.


pitch 2 is 6a+/6b
pitch 3 6b+/6c
Peter Ogden - 03/Dec/02

Agree with Peter. 2 moves at start of pitch are probably 6c, and a move higher up may be 6b+ and difficult to aid as you can't reach the bolt. A very small nut or RP may be useful.
Alex Pryor - 24/Apr/03

The grades for the pitches are all wrong except for the first pitch. P2 is 6a+/6b; p3 is 6b to start then sustained with hard moves higher up and warrants 6b+; p4 is 6c; p5 is 6c. Overall a brilliant route.
There appears to have been some rockfall over the winter on the first pitch. Certainly there are some very hollow sounding blocks sitting on sloping ledges.
bobw - 01/Jun/03

I would be tempted to describe this route in 4 pitches - 6b (currently pitch 2), 6b+ (sustained with a tricky move high up), 6b/6b+ slab - tricky but not strenuous and 6c for the moves over the bulge then go all the way to the top.

Agree with Bob re loose rock on pitch 1 - very wobbly.
andy - 01/Jun/03

Oh - another point - the guide suggests you have to be taken to the pinnacle if you want to go by boat - you can always hire your own - about 90-100 euro including fuel, a nice 40 minute cruise across the bay with dolphins for company if you're lucky, and you can come home when you like. The boat we hired carried 7 plus gear with ease.
andy - 01/Jun/03

Did this last week. Would confirm grades as 6b (current 1st two pitches, the first little pitch is very polished and warrants 6a+!), 6b+, 6c, 6c which is more or less what Pietra di Luna says. Some people said it was very polished - we didn't think so, except first little pitch. It was also dry after very heavy rain the day before, despite facing NW
Peter Herold - 31/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard 6c+ 0 of 11
    6c+ 0 of 11
    easy 6c+ 0 of 11
    hard 6c 1 of 11
    6c 10 of 11
    easy 6c 0 of 11
    hard 6b+ 0 of 11
    6b+ 0 of 11
    easy 6b+ 0 of 11
    3 Stars 11 of 11
    2 Stars 0 of 11
    1 Star 0 of 11
    0 Stars 0 of 11
    Bag of ..... 0 of 11

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