3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Hollybush Crack < Straightsville  |  The Nose > Yosemite Wall >>

Start up a jutting rib on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to ledges. Climb to a broken flake under the roof and make a long reach to the ledge above. Swing right to easy ground.
FA. Alan Clarke 1965


The technical crux is actually the low stretch to the flat ledges, not the top reach.
Mike - 26/Mar/02

The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move.
Nick Smith - 20/Apr/02

A definite classic on gritsone and an amazing route in its own right. The route has two main cruxs. The scary crux and the technical crux, at the bottom striding out over the ledges is the technical crux and then moving out right later and mantleing the ledge is the scary crux. The route is poorly protected at the bottom but a good friend (2.5) protects the mantleshelf move.
Alex Cannon - 22/Mar/03

fantastic route, wish i'd had a friend 2.5 coz i was brickin it in front of a group of laughing schoolies with a million small wires behind the flake somewhere well below me feet.
karl - 08/May/03

Yeah I think the real crux is near the start. I found that worrying - however the flake was much easier than I was expecting. All in all a brilliant route.
Huw D Jones - 16/Jul/03

I'd agree that the lower stretch is the crux. I'm only 5'7" and three quarters and it didnt seem a long reach to me at the top. A great route though.
al evans - 15/Sep/03

I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held.
Ashley - 22/Oct/03

my mate fell off this from the lower crux and landed arse-first on the spike below. ouch.
alari - 08/May/04

the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves.
leon skeldon - 15/May/04

A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'.

It's all there in 16m of gritstone - the easy start to build your confidence, the delicate technical section, followed in short order by thuggy over-hang. Finally you are rewarded by an easy finnish, giving you time to savour the struggle.

AND I managed to do it cleanly - though it was my second attempt.
Albie - 20/Sep/04

this is a 'proper HVS'. the traverse left is quite technical but in my opinion not all that difficult. i found the crux to be manteling onto the ledge. im 5"6ish and didnt find it reachy
free_doherty - 21/May/05

Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below.
Si dH - 04/Aug/05

Great route!
I agree that the top reach isn't the crux because the layaway hold you use to make the reach is much better than expected and so you can get your feet nice and high.
Nice technical route with just enough gear.
MeMeMe - 15/Aug/05

The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money.
Munir Hassan - 30/Aug/05

found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me.
DuzWalker - 16/Apr/07

Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires.
Paul Tomo - 10/Jun/07

Well i don't remember there being a 'technical' traverse i just stood on the flange looked over at the ledge and moved across to it. Then the 'hard mantel' was a piece of piss, hands on ledge then hand in wire crack and step up. Then the long reach wasn't that long. I loved the route tho, really nice climbing and not that hard.
Adam Moroz - 08/Oct/07

Very nice and I was only slightly put off by the stupid name.
I'm tall and I'd expect shorter people to struggle - my second certainly did after he'd led two HVS5a that day.
And the gear in the middle was a bit thin....
richard - 20/Oct/07

Awesome. From the initial reach to the hand ledge, through to the final reach for the top I loved it. I would say it is at the top end of HVS, 5a but in no way should it be upgraded. Such a rewarding route at that grade, pushing up on that pebble...
Alexander Wheeldon - 10/Nov/07

Lovely varied route, quite a change from the usual gritstone HVS. But so cold I couldn't feel me fingers!
John Parker - 28/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 287
    hard E1 0 of 95
    E1 0 of 95
    easy E1 7 of 95
    hard HVS 19 of 95
    HVS 66 of 95
    easy HVS 3 of 95
    hard VS 0 of 95
    VS 0 of 95
    easy VS 0 of 95
    hard 5b 0 of 97
    5b 0 of 97
    easy 5b 0 of 97
    hard 5a 0 of 97
    5a 0 of 97
    easy 5a 0 of 97
    hard 4c 0 of 97
    4c 0 of 97
    easy 4c 0 of 97
    hard 4b 0 of 97
    4b 0 of 97
    easy 4b 0 of 97
    hard 4a 0 of 97
    4a 0 of 97
    easy 4a 0 of 97
    hard 3c 0 of 97
    3c 0 of 97
    easy 3c 0 of 97
    hard 3b 0 of 97
    3b 0 of 97
    easy 3b 0 of 97
    hard 3a 0 of 97
    3a 0 of 97
    easy 3a 0 of 97
    hard 2c 0 of 97
    2c 0 of 97
    easy 2c 0 of 97
    hard 2b 0 of 97
    2b 0 of 97
    easy 2b 0 of 97
    hard 2a 0 of 97
    2a 0 of 97
    easy 2a 0 of 97
    hard ?? 0 of 97
    ?? 0 of 97
    easy ?? 5 of 97
    hard ?? 50 of 97
    ?? 40 of 97
    easy ?? 2 of 97
    3 Stars 80 of 95
    2 Stars 14 of 95
    1 Star 0 of 95
    0 Stars 1 of 95
    Bag of ..... 0 of 95

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